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How it’s Made: Doggy Jizz

Today on How it’s Made: Doggy Jizz, What’s all the fuss about?

 

Jerking off a dog, how hard can it be?

Surprisingly, when it comes to the process of trial and error, when trying to figure out what feels good and how to get to it as efficiently as possible, nature tends to be very forgiving. We might start out awkwardly exploring our own bodies and eventually our furry or furless partners’ bodies, eventually we learn their limits, points of interests and pleasure and can provide a 5 star worthy guide to their nether regions like a google guide worth his/her merit badges, of course with pictures! 😀

Still, when it comes to doing the dirty with our beloved furry friends, there is the added disadvantage of not sharing the same physique and language. Then again: us humans have prehensile thumbs! And gosh, the mobility of our paws … and tongues … (that’s another write up), might just convince the doggy that good things are about to cum … I mean come. Or both 😛 You choose.

 

The boring theoretical bit:

So some (this is definitely not ALL) anatomical info regarding the doggy dick might be handy to be able to explain the process better later on in this blog entry:

First off: the doggy dick is different when compared to the human dick. It has a literal bone in it for starters. That bone, called the Os Penis or Baculum, helps with initial penetration of the bitch.

This means that whilst the stud is humping the bitch, he hasn’t in any way or volume reached his full erection yet, but is able to penetrate, due to the rigidity provided by this bone in his pink love rocket.

Once the tip’s inside (just the tip, mind you 😛 ), the erection can grow naturally, which eventually, whilst humping even more vigorously, leads to difference number two: the knot, or the Bulbus Glandis.

The knot’s function is primarily to ensure actual fertilization happens. By enclosing the vagina, the male makes sure no precious seed leaks out and ends up on the floor and thus increases his chances on off-spring.

The last (important) anatomical difference is the attachment. Whilst a human dick is attached to the body or rather anchored inside the body, by quite the large amount of similar tissue, which makes the direction of the erection related to the body’s position, the dog’s penis is attached differently and can pivot from front to back, without any undue stress to it, or the ligaments, that lead to the butt-to-butt stance of the canine breeding end stage.

 

How does this all come into play when jerking off a doggy?

First off: I’m assuming you know how to approach the dog in question, preferably it’s your own dog and/or a dog that you’re comfortable with and the dog is comfortable with you, approaching him on a such a personal level.

If you’re not at that stage yet, go back to the previous blog post regarding breaking down barriers, to get to that stage. If the dog doesn’t trust you, it’ll be hard or outright dangerous to continue!

So there’s the semi legal disclaimer, that should hold up in court, preventing TheFluffiest from going to doggy-jail.

When jerking off a dog, don’t be too focused on that knot developing, it’ll happen, once you hit the sweet spot.

When starting, don’t be too focused on (touching and manipulating) the glans/red rocket, instead focus on the (furry) shaft. Use that as your medium to provide the stimulation and leave the red rocket for later. Gently massage the shaft skin as if the dog is humping something, up and down. Once you feel a knot developing (it should not have been there, when not excited), you’re at the next stage. And you can gently start moving the furry shaft up and down, so the tip of the red rocket starts peeking out more and more. Don’t pretend it’s a ketchup bottle. Don’t whack it on the back to get the ketchup out. People and dogs will get hurt!! Treat this stage as a massage, with tickles to at max firm gripping. No Chinese chopping motions or anything similar in intensity or speed of pressure applied.

Once the bulb start developing, experiment a little .. for science of course .. to gauge when it’s actually become too big to pop out of the hole and needs to recede in size a bit again.

Once the bulb starts developing and is at the right size, gently coax it out of the sheath, so it can grow further outside the sheath to it’s full width.

Once the bulb is out of the sheath, you can GENTLY grip the shaft / red rocket, itself and GENTLY manually constrict the tissue behind the bulb/knot (I’d strongly advise against using mechanical aids like rubber other bands or do the constriction due to the risk of necrosis/tissue death, when constriction is too tight or maintained too long!!) , so blood can flow in but less easily out again. This causes the knot to swell to it’s maximum size as it would when constricted by the bitch’s vagina.

The bulb is slightly rubbery / has a non-slip like texture, which aids in getting the lock / knotting closed. When you find that bit, that’s also the sweet spot for the dog to cause more enjoyment. The glans / tip of the doggy dick isn’t connected with that many sensory nerves as the “rubbery” bit behind the knot is. Once you find and stimulate that spot, by stroking, lightly pressing and generally paying attention to that spot, you’ll notice that the dog’s humping speed and intensity will increase and the dog will get a very happy smile / expression on his face. Some breeders call this stage of the natural breeding the “happy dance”, as that’s when the dog actually starts orgasming.

BTW: All this time, the dog is probably delivering fluids, which can be pre-cum, actual seed and copious amounts of seminal fluids. As we’re not in the business of harvesting and impregnating bitches with it for offspring, the difference doesn’t really matter. If you do want to know more: there’s a lot of info on that on the internet of course, for enjoyment, as is the purpose on this community, the fact that there’s lubrication present, should be enough.

The fluid is meant for lubrication, so if you cup your (free) hand in front of the red rocket ejaculating it, you can lather your hands and other assorted body parts (there’s usually more then enough for that, so have at it ;p ) and also use some to lather the red rocket, once the bulb is coaxed out of the sheath. This is for his pleasure and comfort too, as without lube of any kind (spit/saliva (either human or canine) is OK too) the doggy dick dries out and can start to hurt (after prolonged periods of time; compare it to eyes not blinking or your tongue hanging out of your mouth, it dries out and that hurts). So be generous with the fluids.

If your dog (because of castration or age or other reasons) doesn’t produce enough fluids and you’re not comfortable providing your own saliva, feel free to use water based lubricants. You can buy those at any drugstore and / or regular store as an OTC product, just like condoms. This human grade lubricant is usually spermicidal (ie: kills sperm/prevents pregnancy). If you’d like you can use lubricant meant for animals bought at a farming supplies store, which is tailor made for this specific task as it’s used for harvesting semen, insemination and echograph’s. This lube is not spermicidal (i.e. does not kill sperm / does not prevent pregnancy).

Depending on the dog and his experience with matings and manual jerking off and his own preferences/instincts, eventually the dog will try to step over his own dick and turn his dick backwards, so it’s now poking out between his back legs, away from his snout, ie: totally backwards. This’d normally facilitate the back-to-back/butt-to-butt doggy mating position that is normal / natural. This doesn’t hinder or hamper the dog, so don’t be afraid when this happens. Let it happen. If you’d like the dog to preferably maintain the forward pointing stance, this is something that can be trained and simply takes time, for him to get used to, as he’s supposed to suppress the instinctual urge to go to the more natural stance, which provides his dick and his brain additional stimulation.

There are definite positive sides to the natural stance as now the doggy dick is free from the belly and pointing backwards, so now licking and other play with more space all around is made easier. This is my doggy dick, go on, give it a lick. 😛

If for whatever perverted reasons (we don’t judge 😛 ) you’d want to collect the semen/ejaculate, this stage would be an ideal time to attach a regular (human) condom (if you’re actually in it for harvesting the semen for insemination, you’d attach a specialized formed condom earlier, to catch every precious drip, you can buy that kind of semen harvesting condoms on amazon and again in many farming supply stores), on the swollen doggy dick. Don’t try to get the condom’s “rubber band/ring” over the knot. It serves no purpose for our community’s needs and adds the danger of constriction with necrosis/tissue death. Just use the condom over the straight bit.

The knot wil stay up for a limited amount of time, even in a natural breeding, as it’s directly tied (pun intended) to the dog’s experience and the bitch’s vagina providing stimulation. Once it starts to deflate, the fun’s not necessarily over, but the dog will want to be released (from the vagina or in this case: your hand) and will strain against it. That is normal too, don’t fight it, don’t scold the dog, even if he panics slightly. This is the stage where most inexperienced dogs come down from the high and realize: they’re still stuck and can’t move off/away, which causes a minor panic and can cause them to strain hard, try to roll on their backs and do whatever to be released from this vice-like grip(-ping vagina). Tell him he’s been a very good boy, such a good boy, big big kiss, etc.. And allow him to strain, but tell him to be gentle. You don’t want him to hurt himself or the bitch and he should learn to disengage cautiously.

Once the dog experiences the knot popping out (or in this case the manual constriction ending) he’ll want to check his favorite toy and give it a thorough cleaning. You can of course help him clean (especially if you used foreign substances like the lubes, that you don’t want ingested too much of, although both types of lube are safe for ingestion, though they might cause some tummy upset in breeds/individuals with fussy stomachs), but usually it’s better to let the dog do it himself. If necessary you can give it a gentle rinse in the shower, with warm water (definitely not HOT water) and a very very mild natural soap (no sting shampoo for kids, or something similar) if the situation asks for it. Allow the dog to clean and lick it himself afterwards. It’s only part of natural grooming and his need to inspect and make sure everything is in order.

In doing so (the licking and cleaning) the dog also makes sure the sheath is tucked around the shaft properly. If for whatever reason the dog doesn’t manage to do that on his own (once the knot’s deflated), you can assist him manually, by moving the sheath slightly back (resist the urge to start over jerking him off again) and thus forcing the skin to untuck/unfurl and unroll at the front end (which is usually what causes this issue to happen) and allow errant hairs that got tucked in to escape from between the shaft and the sheath and then move it gently back over the tip of the red rocket. If there’s still swelling / erection of the red rocket, you usually won’t be able to cover it with the sheath, so allow the swelling/erection to go down (don’t keep jerking it, ya perv 😛 ).

Again tell the boy he’s been a very good and special boy and that the treat/playtime is now over and he’s allowed to go outside and have a big wee. As he’ll want to clean his pipes after the orgasm. Take him out / allow him outside and let him pee. Don’t forget this as the urge to pee afterwards is present naturally as a defense mechanism against foreign tissue and / or bacteria / viruses. If you don’t specifically allow him to pee, he might feel the need to go inside eventually. Don’t let that habit develop!!

 

Some additional caveats:

– Most dogs are very sensitive about being touched on the testicles/balls, as that’s where a competitor (irrespective of sex/gender) would grab the dog whilst he’s humping a bitch. So don’t touch him at the balls unexpectedly. Once he’s comfortable with you manipulating that zone, the balls are happy to be cuddled and fondled. Don’t do anything sudden and definitely don’t use nails/teeth, or anything sharp that’ll trigger his anxiety about being bitten in his sack by a competitor.

– The knot coming out might cause some slight discomfort the very few first time(-s), if you notice this, try to remember the size it was then and when trying again the next time, aim for a smaller size. The baculum/os penis, will provide enough rigidity for the penis-shaft to exit the sheath, so even without an erection, you can get it out. It’s nicer for the dog though if it feels/closely mimics the natural humping sensations and growing naturally out of the sheath. If the dog has phimosis, which is a medical condition, ie. the hole in the shaft at the top being too tight to allow the glans to exit, then you probably will need to consult a vet or a breeder, who can confirm it’s too tight and discuss whether or not this needs addressing. If the dog isn’t meant for breeding you’ll have a bit of a job to get a vet to start cutting into an otherwise healthy dog. So be forewarned.

– The dog’s glans / tip of the dick does grow larger, but not like a mushroom like a human’s. It’s more of ridge (for HER pleasure) at the end. This is the normal shape.

So going from balls to tip, the dog’s dick is attached inside, then the most sensitive bit (the “rubbery/non-slip bit) is there, then the glans bulbus/knot – tissue is present, then the remainder of the shaft, then the glans, with the ridge at the end and the tip projecting the fluids. Focus more on providing pleasure at the back end (where the bitch’ vulva/vagina would grasp and milk it) and less on the tip, as there’s simply less nerves there to enjoy the stimulation. Most dogs even shirk if the tip/edge is grasped or otherwise handled too roughly, as that part is meant to be inside the soft end of the bitch’s birth canal, near or even inside the cervix.

– If your dog panics during any part of this process, make sure you don’t get bit. Most dogs will only snap, to show their intent and will want to get away because they know they are vulnerable with their dick hanging out. If bitten in this stage at the dick, the dog is definitely at risk of exsanguination through that area. So the primary response to any fear/force in this situation will be a quick snap and run. Not a bite that’s meant to not release. If possible, don’t let it get to this stage, but should the dog get spooked, and even snaps at you, don’t scold him, as it’ll only intensify his fear reaction. Instead stay matter of fact and using an even tone of voice, state: Guess you didn’t like that. Want to try a different way? etc. Don’t over sugarcoat it. Don’t try to impress. Convey that you are not impressed by him being spooked. Whatever happened, spooked just him and not you. So if you’re not spooked, he can take his cues from you, that seemingly you don’t think or feel that your life is in danger. Same should apply to him. Let’s get back to the dirty 😛 That’s the general feeling you’re trying to convey.

– As mentioned before: play with yourself, during such encounters (unless you’re harvesting semen professionally of course … ), the pheromones from your body, despite not being the same as a bitch’s, do provide the dog a generalized sense of what state you’re in. And if he smells you’re excited / romantic, he’ll be happier to join you in that mood.

– If your technique is very good (you could be a natural) or the dog is inexperienced (despite you being very good 😛 ) the dog might have a premature ejaculation as he got overexcited. Don’t worry about it. It happens to the best of us 😛 And dogs don’t have the same type of refractionary period as humans. So (and especially in young/inexperienced dogs) if he starts spewing ejaculate (not precum, but happy dance, thick semen) before you even touched him properly, still praise him and tell him he’s such a good boy. And depending on his reaction on whether he wants to clean (AND GO PEE) or if he can muster up the strength to have a second go, adjust your plans accordingly.

– If using toys (fleshlights and the like): use CLEAN stuff that can’t accumulate old semen/whatever other bodily fluids with the risk of contamination and making your dog sick. I’d advise against using things like the thick grapefruit slice or other foodstuffs as the pH level of those fruits especially could wreak havoc on the bacteria and other sub dermal glands in the penis and sheath, which could cause problems down the line.

Apart from that: Go forth and fornicate 😛

Remember to have fun and of course stay safe!

Pro – tip: by doing this game with the dog only when you’re alone, in your private bed room, etc. etc., there’s less chance he’ll start to hump you (or your hand) in public. Try to teach it as a trick, rewards (peanut butter if you like) may be involved and couple a word/command to it. That way the dog understands when it’s appropriate and when not.

 

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2 Comments
  1. sXaBeast 6 months ago

    You nasty fluffy boy you!

    Id like to see the research behind this article .

  2. Blackguy56 6 months ago

    Very interesting good stuff. Does make me wonder how many animal breeds are zoophiles though 🤔

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